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I was almost done with this project except that I had a broken ARB to deal with. The cylinder cap was ruined as was the bearing and the seal housing. In fact, I couldn't even slide the seal housing off of the end of the locker. I removed the 6 bolts holding the seal housing in place and then hammered it off using a cold chisel. This left the splined section still jammed in the locker. Troy gave me some assistance and I quickly learned how to completely strip an ARB down to its individual components. We were able to remove the broken shaft and reassemble the locker using the new parts that had arrived the previous day. Thanks Troy for the crash course in ARB internals!
At this point, I was ready to reinstall the locker into the housing and button it up. Basically, I just needed to reverse the steps that got me to this point.
Before you put the carrier back into the housing, take a couple of minutes and clean the old RTV off of the sealing surface of the housing. You can use a gasket scraper as I have done for many years. You can also use a flapper disc on a right angle grinder to speed up the RTV removal process if you are so inclined. A few squirts of break cleaner will clean up the residue and flush the housing of the RTV debris.
OK, time to wrap it up.
Be certain you have your external shims positioned on the end of the carrier (required for an ARB differential). (Remember, you set them aside in a nice little pile so you wouldn't get them messed up, right?) Slide the carrier back into the housing. It will be a tight fit because of the bearing pre-load. You should be able to get the carrier started into the bearing cups. I prefer to use a dead blow hammer to seat the carrier into the housing, just like the above photo. Take you time and be sure you are putting the carrier squarely into the housing. It won't work worth a darn if it is sitting there crooked as you try to pound it into position. You can also use a large diameter brass drift punch on the bearings and the carrier. This allows you to better focus the energy if you find that smacking the ring gear isn't getting you the results you want.
Once you have the carrier seated in the bearing cups, place the bearing caps into position. Remember to match the stamped marks side to side and top to bottom. I can NOT emphasize enough that you need to put the caps back on in the correct position.
The bearing cap bolts, per the FSM for my '98 TJ, are torqued to 45 ft. lbs.
With the bearings cap bolts tightened, you can slide the axle shafts into the axles and button things up. Just reverse those steps you followed to remove the axle shafts from the axle housing at the beginning of this write-up.
That is about it. You should now have a pair of leak free axle shaft seals installed and ready to give you many miles of highway and wheelin' fun. No more dripping your fluid on the driveway....and that is a good thing for sure!