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Next, thread the inner nut (part #5) onto the wheel hub. Note that this nut (one of three pieces) has the little round pin on it (shown at the 12 o'clock position) in the above picture.
Now....this is where some folks, myself included, don't follow the Warn install instructions. I consulted some friends that run this hub kit on their TJ D-30 to see how they did it. I am not telling you that the Warn method is wrong. I am telling you I did not follow the torque specs for the spindle nuts as outlined in the Warn installation instructions.
Using an inch pound wrench, tighten the inner nut (with the D44
spindle wrench) to about 55 in lbs. Just before you begin to tighten the
nut (and we aren't talking very much torque here), spin the rotor by hand
to get a feel of how much resistance there is. It should be
spinning quite freely right now. Tighten the nut while continuing to spin
the rotor back and forth. Moving it back and forth also helps seat the
bearings too (as the instructions state). You will notice that there is a
bit more resistance than there was when you started.
Slip the lock washer (part #5)
onto the spindle. If the hole does not line up correctly, flip the lock
washer over. The holes in it are not symmetrical to the tang so it will
probably fit when you flip it over. If it does not, then tighten the
inner nut ever so slightly until the lock washer slips into place on the inner
Thread the outer nut onto the spindle and torque it to 150 ft. lbs. If you rotate the rotor back and forth, you will notice that it tightened up just a bit more. The rotor should still be easy to turn by hand and will probably continue to rotate about a quarter or third of a revolution when you give it a spin and let go. Now....like I said, this is how I did mine (more or less). Actually, I tightened the inner nut by hand (just turned the big old D44 spindle nut wrench by hand) until it was snug. After I put about 10 miles on the Jeep, I shall pull the tire and check it and see how close I was by checking it with the inch pound wrench.
Next, get yourself a small pry bar or something you can pry with
and place it on the back side of the inner shaft yoke. Apply a bit of
pressure. All you are trying to do is to push the axle shaft out towards
the wheel hub a tiny bit.
By pushing on the yoke a tiny bit, you will expose the recessed
area on the inboard side of the outer shaft splines. Slip the splined
washer (part #3) onto the axle shaft.
Place the c-clip (part #2) on the inboard
side of the splines and snap it into place, as shown in the above picture.
Apply some anti-seize compound to the o-ring inside of the hublock (NOT GREASE) and slip it onto the spindle while lining up the holes for the lug nut. Install your brake caliper onto the bracket and replace the two 13mm caliper mounting bolts. Torque the mounting bolts to 11 ft. lbs. Mount the tires/wheel onto your shiny new hub conversion and torque the lug nuts to 100 ft. lbs. Be sure you check them again in about 50 miles.
That is it! Repeat this process on the passenger side and you are done. I look forward to NOT having my drive shaft spinning all day long as I drive down the freeway or around town. Talk about a waste of all those u-joints spinning round and round (not to mention the ARB locker).
Good luck on your conversion and I hope it goes well for you. (be warned that putting those nice new u-joints in those Warn shafts will try your patience!) LOL
Remember to TREADLightly!
Late Note: If you look closely, you will see the dust shield (that I forgot to install) laying on the floor jack. To this day, both dust shields are stored on a garage shelf. What can I say?
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