OK....you now should have unobstructed access to the outer bearing. If it doesn't slip out of the hub, pull the hub a half inch towards the end of the spindle (away from the vehicle) and then push it back into position. The bearing will have pushed out about a half inch and you should now be able to grab it. Set the bearing aside.
Now slide the rotor/hub assembly off of the spindle and place it wheel studs down onto a piece of scrap cardboard.
Using a seal puller or a screw driver or a pair of pliers, pull the grease seal from the inward side of the hub. As I mentioned before, I sacrifice the seal as I have a new one standing by.
Remove the inner bearing from the hub and set it aside. Get out your favorite tub of high temp disc brake wheel bearing grease. I use Valvoline myself but any quality brand of disc brake wheel bearing grease will work.
Repack the hub's inner diameter with wheel bearing grease. There should be a bunch there already (from the installation) but you need to replenish it. If it looks to be contaminated (dirt, mud, water, etc.), grab a hand full of paper towels and wipe the inside of the hub completely clean of grease, then refill it with fresh grease. It is a pretty good sized area and will take a fair amount of grease top fill this void.
Pack the inner wheel bearing with the wheel bearing grease.
If you have a wheel bearing packer, use it. If you don't, you can do it by
hand. To pack by hand, grab a pair of laytex disposable gloves and put
them on. Put a large glob of grease in the palm of your hand.
Repeatedly force the edge of the bearing into the grease so that it fills with
grease. You must "squish" the grease into the edge of the bearing until it
pushed out of the other side. Then rotate the bearing about 30 degrees and
start the process all over again, pushing the grease into the edge of the
bearing until it pushes through. Continue working your way around the
bearing, packing it with grease. It will take you about 3~5 minutes if you
do this right. The goal is to completely fill the voids around all of the
roller bearings inside of the cage.
With the inner bearing now serviced, install it into the inboard side of the wheel hub. Apply additional grease around the back side of the installed bearing. Fill the large radial seal cavity with grease. Press the new grease seal into the inboard side of the hub. The seal may protrude slightly from the wheel hub but should mount nearly flush with the edge of the hub. Keep the seal square to the hub as you press it into place....don't let it get cocked in there. A flat piece of metal laid across the surface of the seal and "motivated" with light hammer tapping works well. Work your way around the seal. The idea is to get it started all the way around and then work it down into the hub until it is in position.
Now pack the outer wheel bearing in the same manner as you did the inner bearing. Again, ensure all of the voids between each roller bearing is completely filled with grease.
Install the wheel bearing into the outer end of the hub. Apply a thin coating of grease onto the shank of the spindle and slide the hub/rotor assembly back onto the spindle.
From here, it is a simple matter of installing the spindle nuts and torquing them to spec. Rather than repeating the entire process here, you can get the details from the last page of my hub conversion install write-up.
At this point, you should are done with one hub and need to repeat the process on the other hub. Once that is done, clean up your mess and call it good.
Now....the afore mentioned process was how my annual hub maintenance has gone for the past 3 years (plus the one year the hubs were installed before I serviced them for the first time).
As I mentioned at the beginning of this write-up, I had an unexpected surprise this year. To see what else could require attention, click the link to continue with the hub maintenance write-up.
More Hub Maintenance
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