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Superior Axle and Gears Super88 Kit
by Tim Doumit

 

Stu's comment:  Tim was good enough to take photos, make notes, and generally do everything else needed to document his Superior Super88 kit installation so that it could be shared with everyone.  Since Tim and I don't live anywhere near each other, he also got stuck doing this write-up, mostly because he wouldn't fly me up to his place to help out!  I promised him I would host the write-up here so as many folks as possible could easily find it.  A big thanks to Tim for sharing his comments and hard work.

OK......now on with Tim's write-up.

 

If you are looking to get even more strength out of that Ford Explorer 8.8 axle you swapped into your Jeep, this write-up is for you. This kit will make your 8.8 laugh at 37 tires.

The Super 88 kit can be easily installed with common tools. A few wrenches, hacksaw and file to name a few. Anything else is just a luxury but totally not necessary. The kit requires some cutting and no welding. It bolts on in your driveway in 2 hours.

The new rolled splined and CNC-Machined axle shafts are 4340 induction hardened chromos with a breaking strength of about 9500 psi. They have a thicker flange and shaft body for tons more strength. The Timken bearings in this kit are the common "Set 20" these bearings offer twice the strength of your regular roller bearings.

While eliminating the c-clips, the Super 88 kit widens the axle by about .96" on each side by installing a housing end adapter. It use the same SET-20 bearing that Currie uses in their 9" and Dana 60 housings ends.  It is also the same one that Dynatrac uses on their Custom built Dana 60's. This kit will widen the 8.8s track beyond the stock Dana 35 axle that came on your rig to 61-3/8" (wms to wms) and bring it closer to the front axle's width even if your Jeep has a manual locking hub kit up there.

Onward:

A few days ago there was a dead UPS man on my doorstep under a 50 lb. package with "Superior" stamped all over it. Anyone who has been to my home knows how steep the driveway is. Let's just say I live in the city and I don't get trick-or-treaters or solicitors because I live on "Cardiac Hill". UPS, FedEx, etc. they hate me.

 

Here is what comes with the Super 88 kit:
(2) 4340 Chrome Molly axles (Made in the U.S.A with American steel)
(2) Retainers w/spacer rings.
(2) Timken bearings/seals.
(10) threaded studs and locking nuts.
(8) Set-up nuts
(2) Housing end adapters.
(2) Superior axle badges.
All hardware and instructions needed to put the kit together.

 

Before you get started just remember your personal protection equipment. This includes eyes, ears, gloves and things like jack stands and wheel chocks. I like to fling sparks as far as possible with my man tools so I keep a fire extinguisher handy too.

As I mentioned before, this kit is designed to be easily installed in one's driveway, even if you only have a hacksaw and file. But I say "Why fight technology?"  Grandpa had it rough and power tools were put on Earth for good reason. Look at it this way, if the power goes out the Super 88 show still goes on.

Here is a list of tools I used:
- 19mm (lug nuts)
- Breaker bar
- Flat head screw drivers
- Floor jack
- Wheel chocks
- socket (diff cover removal)
- Scraper
- 10mm (caliper bolts)
- Bungee cords (hang calipers out of way)
- 5mm allen wrench (ARB cross pin)
- Telescopic magnet (c-clip retrieval)
- L.E.D. headlight (you want to see right?)
- Rubber sand mallet (removing disc from old shafts)
- 14mm (backing plates and housing end adapters)
- Needle nose pliers (bearing cage)
- Slide hammer (you really need this unless you want to cuss a lot)
- Angle grinder with cut off wheel and tiger flap disc
- Emery cloth
- Drain pans
- Wire brush or wheel
- Silicone sealer (I used Permatex "the Right Stuff" and "Ultra Grey")
- Diff fluid

Yeah, I used a lot of tools but some people like shoes and I think THEY have a problem. I like tools.

Getting on with it:

 

The c-clips need to come out to remove the stock axles but first the differential cover must come off in order for that to happen. So, crack that diff open and get the "big nasty" out of the way. That thing will drain forever and you can let it drain while you are chocking up the front wheels, setting up the jack stands under the rear axle and removing the wheels and tires. While you are at it, grab that 10mm wrench and remove the caliper bolts and hang them out of the way with your bungee cords or zip ties.

 

It is time to get the c-clips out. So you can get the axle shafts out, so you can stick the other ones in. See where I am going?  If you have an ARB locker in the 8.8, you will also most definitely have a 5mm Allen wrench to get that cross pin retainer bolt out.  Once the bolt is out, the cross pin can be slid out of the way for c-clip removal.

 

For the next step put the transmission in neutral and have the parking brake off.  You will need to spin the ARB locker around.   Push the pin out towards the retainer bolt end of the cross pin. Rotate the locker around until you can see into the access window. Have a minion (or just get up) push the axle shafts inward to take some pressure off the c-clips. I tapped the axle shafts on the end with my rubber mallet and dislodged the c-clips which I pulled out with a telescopic magnet.


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