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On the back side of the housing end adapter there is a recess
which you will apply a bead of silicone sealer. I used Permatex "The Right
Stuff". In all the times I have put diff covers back on I have never had a leak
with this product. Use the mounting bolts and set-up nuts for the installation
of the adapter flange. Slide the housing end adapter onto the bolts and line up
with the axle tube. There are four large 7/16" nuts that slip on first and four
smaller 3/8" non-locking set-up nuts to press the unit on. Do not use the 3/8"
locking nuts at this time, they are for final assembly after the shafts are slid
Once you have adapter flange set squarely on the flange and the indexing neck / ring lined up to slide inside the tube, begin tightening the nuts with a deep 14mm socket and a 14mm end wrench on the back. Use a cross pattern and bring the housing end adapter tight against the flange evenly. Make sure you check your progress as you go to ensure an even installation. Once in place remove the nuts and do the other side.
The caliper bracket / dust shield assembly is next. To ease reinstallation of this assembly onto the axle it is a good idea to drill the dust shield holes out to the next biggest size. My caliper bracket holes were already bigger. The size of the holes and style of the dust shields may vary a bit.
The same goes for the center hole where the bearings will pass through. Test fit the assembly and see where the dust shield will sit in relation to the caliper bracket, then use a file or small grinding stone on a die grinder to enlarge the opening to match the caliper bracket. After you have the caliper bracket and dust shield in place, it's time to install the axle shaft. Pull the rags out and clean the axle tubes thoroughly of debris and metal shavings.
(This next step you may or may not have to do as the kit may
start coming soon with the bearings already pressed on.)
First you must have the bearings pressed on. (Unless you have a 20 ton press in your shop. I do not and my 12 ton Harbor Freight press was not up to the task.) I took the bearings, seals, retainer plates, rings, collars and shafts to my local automotive machine shop to let the experts do their thing. This might cost you a few bucks but it is worth it. If you choose to do it on your own you may want to press the bearing on first and then the collar. (Remember the retainer plate goes on first, next the ring, then the seal, bearing, collar.)
Install your studs into the flanges. Make sure you select the right bolt pattern. If your Jeep is running stock bolt pattern wheels, use the inner threaded set for 5 on 4 1/2. Dab some blue thread locker on the threads during installation.
Okay, you have your assembled shafts (long shaft on driver's
side and the short goes on the passenger side). I put a little grease on the
splines and a thin coat of Permatex "Ultra Grey" silicon on the seal's edge.
Slide the axle into the tube and line up the retainer plate with the bolts (you
took your rags out, right?). Use your Grade-C locking nuts for final assembly
and tighten them down to 50 ft lbs. (it might be a good idea to tighten them in
a cross pattern working your way up to 50 ft lbs.)
The rotors and calipers are next: Make sure your rotors are free from grease and oil before they come in contact with your brake pads and shoes. Do not over torque your caliper bolts. Retighten to factory specifications.
Seal up you differential and refill. Put on some wheels and tires and you are done!