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by Ty Cook
I have TJ Dana 30 shafts in my YJ.
The parts you need to do this in a YJ are as follows:
-both inner and outer axles out of a TJ.
-a block off plate for the axle disconnect
-two axle seals
-diff fluid to replace the stuff you drain during the install
When putting TJ shafts into a YJ, you need to put a plate in place of the vacuum switch assembly doo hickey that is there now and seat two seals (one right by the diff and the other on the outboard of the disconnect cavity). I had these parts as part of a kit that come with Warn high strength axles. Guys who buy those shafts for their TJs don't use those parts and a fellow jeeper was very kind enough to send them to me. The Warn part numbers are:
Inner seal - 37897
Outer seal - 60006
Block off plate - 39147
Note from Stu: I pulled these part numbers off of a reliable forum,
however, I've not verified them:
Inner seal - Chicago Rawhide CR11343
Outer seal - Spicer 46470
The instructions that came with it are pretty good. Warn's customer service number is 1-888-722-6730
Here is a picture of the parts:
Here are some off-hand abbreviated instructions paraphrased from Warn's instructions (which are pretty darn good if you are getting the seals from them then make sure the instructions come too) and from the answers I got from fellow jeepers to my own questions when I planned out this modification.
1. Go to Stu's website and follow the instructions on how to remove everything outside the steering knuckles. ie.. brakes, rotors, tires and he even includes bolt sizes and locations. He did a great job as usual and I won't even attempt to top his detailed write-up. Go to Stu's kick ass Dana 30 axle shaft removal write-up.
2. By now you have the shafts ready to be removed, if you haven't already done so then take out the stock shafts. You will need to remove the vacuum shift motor housing to get out the long side axle. Looking over my FSM it is a pretty obvious process and they have some good illustrations. It starts on page 2-27. Pretty much remove the four bolts holding on the vacuum shift motor housing and gut it of the shift collar fork and anything else there, you will have to have that new outer seal to install in place of the factory stuff. Disconnect the wires going to the shift motor housing and plug the two vacuum lines. Zip-tie anything left of the harness safely under the hood. I really suggest getting a factory service manual if you don't already have one, it is a must buy item for any jeep owner. I bought mine direct from DC at on the internet at www.techauthority.com The phone number to call is 1-800-890-4038 if you feel talkative.
3. You will need to remove the carrier from your differential in order to place one of the seals. This means getting your tie rod out of the way. Here is a quote from a smart dude named Robert:
|You do not need to use a pickle fork to remove the tie rod. A decent flat bottomed hammer of fair size will work better, a bronze mallet works best. If you haven't removed them in awhile, hit them with some penetrating oil (not WD) and then use the hammer on the front of the knuckle where the tie rod mounts. Do not hit the tie rod or the tie rod end and leave the castle nut part way on to capture the rod when it falls out of the tapered hole. A pickle fork will only serve to ruin the TRE boots.|
4. Once you have swung the tie rod out of
the way you have easy access to the differential. Drain the fluid and open
it up. I leave one bolt partially screwed in at the top so that the cover won't
go splashing into the pan of gear oil when I break the gasket seal. Once it's
drained completely I remove the last bolt and the cover.
5. Next is to remove the carrier (make sure you have the axles removed before you pull the carrier or else it won't come out ) Watch what you are doing and be sure to use a grease pencil or something to mark exactly how you took the carrier out. Here is a quote from another smart dude named Mark:
The bearing and bearing caps must be reinstalled in the same location and
position as original. The D30 should have the shims inboard of the bearings,
so they will not go anywhere. IF you have regeared, there is a possibility
that the installer may have put some shims outboard to cut corners, so keep
an eye on it if that's the case.
That's really all that's to it.
6. Time to put the seals in now. As
per the Warn instructions you can use a 1 3/8" socket or appropriately sized
wood block to seat the inner seal with blows from a hammer. This is the
seal that goes right beside the carrier. Make sure it goes in square and
is fully seated, I would also pre-oil the edges with some clean fluid to make
sure they don't get messed up as the shaft is reinstalled.
8. After both seals are installed then
reinstall the carrier being sure to put it back how you marked it before. You do
not want to screw up the gear installation.
Here are some part numbers to the seal that fits in the passenger side of the axle tube right at the differential. Please bear in mind that I used the seal that Warn sent and haven't ordered a seal using these numbers. They were kindly provided to me by other guys who have emailed me after they did the axle shaft swap.
Chicago Rawhide Part No: CR-11343
National Part No: 471763
Quadratec Part No: 52420.12