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Following the procedure that ScottK described in his write-up, I drill a couple of holes (three of them in fact) in the spacer that surrounded the pilot bushing. Be careful when you drill as you don't want to hit the crankshaft (sides or bottom). If you do, you'll need to clean it up before you try to fit the torque converter into the end of the crankshaft. Here is what is left of the spacer after holes and a good sharp chisel assault. Use a sharp chisel....yes, it is worth the time it takes to put a good edge on it.
With the end of the crankshaft cleaned up and ready to go, the
two piece dust shield is installed. It slips over a couple of guide pins.
Make sure you get it lined up....no need to force it.
With that taken care of, the flex plate was the next item to be installed as we were pretty much done taking stuff off of the TJ. I apologize for not getting a picture of the flex plate (and dust shield). They were supplied by Scott00TJ which he took while doing his install. I tell you, when you get on a roll wrenchin', it is difficult to remember to stop and snap pics of everything done, especially when you have a power house buddy like Bob who is ripping to get stuff done!
The upper section of dust shield is placed onto the back of the engine. Slip it over the two guide pins that protrude from the engine block (about 3 and 9 o'clock). It only fits one way and and you should note that when properly positioned, it fits in a slot that goes around the rear main seal housing. The cutout area for the starter is quite obvious. If you fail in properly positioning the dust shield, pack up all your junk and go pay someone to finish the swap for you. (just kidding)
With the dust shield in place, place the flex plate over the end of the crank shaft. There are six holes and you will quickly find that there is only ONE position where all six holes align correctly. This is so that the timing slots at the edge of the flex plate will align correctly with the piston firing order and the CPS/PCM will be able to detect what cylinder is ready to get spark in the proper order.
With the flex plate in position, place the space over the end of the crank shaft and position it so that the six holes are aligned correctly, just like you did with the flex plate.
In case you were wondering, yes, the length of the bolts holding the flywheel onto the end of the crankshaft (bolt on the left) is longer than the bolt intended to hold the flex plate onto the end of the crankshaft. As me how I know? Because I forgot. I never really noticed that the 6 bolts I had gotten with the AW4 were in fact shorter until we managed to bottom out the flywheel bolts while attaching the flex plate....DOH! So regardless of what you may have been told, size does matter.
The flex plate mounting bolts were torqued to 55 ft. lbs. I also applied a couple drops of red thread sealant when installing them.
The time had come for Bob to "put the tranny home".....or something like that. I'm not sure just what he said as he was so excited to get this thing installed. We placed the tranny on the jack and raised it up into position. With some grease on the guide pins and a bit on the front of the torque converter (where it engages the crankshaft), we started to jockey the transmission into position. Be sure your torque converter stays seated during the "get it into position" process.
We closed the gap between the engine block and the front of the tranny a little bit at a time. The jack was raised, lowered, tilted, etc. to help get the tranny into alignment. Likewise, we found it a BIG plus to be able to raise the engine up and down a bit....actually, more of a tilt affect. We had a screw jack under the oil pan (as seen in the previous photo) and this helped quite a bit.
We finally got things lined up and one of the guide pins engaged the hole on the tranny housing. I slipped a bolt in place and engaged a few threads, just enough to hold it in position. Bob then worked the back of the tranny around to get the other guide pin to engage....a little more jockeying with the tranny jack and the screw jack and the 2nd guide pin was starting into the hole in the tranny housing.
NOTE: Do NOT force the tranny up against the engine block by cranking the bolts down. If you have everything aligned correctly, INCLUDING THE TORQUE CONVERTER, you will be able to push the tranny all the way onto the guide pins. If you can't, something isn't right. Stop, take a break, and look over your situation and try it again. Forcing the tranny up to the engine block using bolt tightening force will more than likely damage the tranny and/or torque converter (since it has probably become unseated during the process).
We thought we had a "goof proof" method by which to help get the mounting tabs lined up with the 4 holes in the flex plate. I took a permanent marker and drew a line from the center of the mounting tab (all four of them) to the outer edge of the torque converter. The idea was that we would be able to see the line through the bottom of the dust shield (not yet installed) and then be able to rotate the flex plate to line up the hole. That was a great idea in theory but when we put it to the test, the outer edge of the torque converter (with the marks now on it) could NOT be seen when the tranny was up snug against the engine block. BUMMERS!
More AW-4 Tranny Swap