With the plug wire removed, the socket is slipped carefully over
the plug and the plug is removed. This is probably a good spot to mention
that it is wise to keep all of the plug wires on their respective spark plug
except for the one you are working on. There is nothing to be gained by
pulling all of the wires off at once, other than the possibility of getting them
mixed up when you try to put them back on.
OK...so you have the old plug removed. I put an old and
new one side by side just to see if I could see much of a difference. Can
you? The electrode gap on the old plug is visually wider than the new plug
(which was properly gapped before this picture was taken). The old plug
comes in at about .050" The color and deposits on the white insulator
look pretty average. There is no sooty deposit, no oil residue, etc.,
which means the engine is still in good condition. (I should hope so, it
just turned 40K miles today).
Speaking of electrode gap, don't forget to set the gap before you install the plugs. If you don't have one, you should spend a couple of bucks and get a wire gapping tool made just for spark plugs. OK...so most people don't set the gap one handed, as I am doing here [insert big grin], but I was busy taking the picture with the other hand. My TJ requires the plugs to be set at .035". The tool is handy since it allows you to easily bend the ground electrode (the one attached to the threaded body of the plug) to the exact position in order to get the proper gap.
Note: I got an e-mail from a site user that recently changed plugs on his 2.4L SE TJ. It has an aluminum head and he mentioned that anti-seize is a must and that torque specs is just 15 ft. pounds, which is about half of the 4.0L specs. The gap on for the plug is a little different too, being .040".
I also like to add a little bit of anti-seize compound to the plug threads. It doesn't happen very often, but more than one or two spark plugs have been broken in half while trying to extract them from the engine. The way I see it, the incremental cost of putting a dab of anti-seize on the plug is probably 10 cents for the project. A little goes a long way with this stuff so don't over do it.
After you have set the gap, slip the spark plug into the spark plug socket and carefully thread it into the block. Do this by hand until the plug has fully seated in order to make sure you are not cross threading the cylinder block hole. Torque the spark plug between 26 and 30 ft. pounds. Firmly attach the spark plug boot to the top of the plug and you are ready to go. One down and 5 (or 3) to go.
Note: I clipped this snip-it of info from an on-line Jeep forum. Hopefully it will be helpful to someone....
A friend of mine was changing plugs the other day and noticed
his heater hose was laying on the plug/coil pack cover and had a significantly
worn spot in the hose back by the bend above #6. His is an '02 sport with 50K
and the engine - body relationship has not been changed at all. He told me to
check mine so I did.
Mine is an '03 with 38K and it had the same problem only worse. Mine has worked a deep hole into the hose and can't be far from going through the hose. Not a hard or expensive fix but something to look at. In all fairness, mine has a body lift and matching motor mount lift along with a 1" drop flat skid. I'm sure the flat skid has a lot to do with mine being worse.
I just know it would suck to spring a pinhole leak on a road trip at road speed and not notice till you smoked the engine.
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