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I mentioned earlier that you can recycle the disconnect spring from the factory setup and use it with your new fire control group (FCG). Let's take a look at how to reclaim that spring.
In the disconnect and sear assembly, you can see the disconnect
spring. That needs to be removed if you want to use it with the new FCG.
Using a small punch and my pliers as an anvil, I tapped the
split pin out of the assembly (it was a little ornery but it did come out).
I was able to grab the split pin near the end and pull it out with the pliers.
When doing so, be sure to keep the disconnect pressed so it doesn't come out let
the spring go flying across the room (oops!).
Except for the spring, the rest of the parts can be tossed into the parts bin as they will not be used during assembly.
Here are the parts that just came out of the Saiga's receiver. Those marked with "X" were not used during my conversion. Those with "labels" will be used during reassembly.
With the disassembly now complete, it was time to start installing the new parts (those items I had on the list on a previous page).
I mentioned way back on the first page that I used some drill
bits during the conversion. In the next couple of steps, a factory spot
weld will be drilled out of the trigger guard. I found this to be the
toughest step of the entire conversion. Before I started drilling the spot
weld, I headed over to the local Lowe's store and picked up a couple of titanium
drill bits in 1/8" and 3/16" sizes. I looked for the cobalt type drill
bits that were recommended in several of the on-line forums but alas, Lowe's
didn't have them. I would find later that the titanium bits simply were
not up to the task. Yes, they eventually got the job done, but I spent
more time on that one step than I did no any other part of the conversion.
I'll recommend now that you try to find these cobalt type drill bits in hopes
that they will make it easier for you.
In order to install the new fire control group, the trigger guard must be moved forward. This makes room for the pistol grip at the same time. To move the trigger guard, three rivets need to be removed and a spot weld must be drilled out. The hole resulting from drilling the spot weld will become a new mounting hole in the trigger guard. The trigger guard is attached to a flat steel plate called the trigger plate. The trigger plate is in turn attached to the bottom of the receiver. The trigger plate will not be used during reassembly (this went in the trash and not the spare parts bin).
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