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The next part to slip onto the sear pin was the factory sear. Again, I gently pushed the sear pin further into the frame, while holding the sear in position. until it was just flush with the inner edge of the sear.
I then held the PRP sear spring in position and slipped the sear pin further along until it engaged the other side of the sear. This resulted in the sear spring being properly located in the cutout section of the sear.
The last step for this part of the install is the factory ejector. With it held in position, I pressed the sear pin through the ejector until it protruded about a 3/16" through the ejector. I had to wiggle the ejector just a bit to get it lined up with the ejector pin as I was pushing on the pin.
Once the ejector pin was protruding through its hole in the ejector, I pushed the end of the sear spring down and around the end of the ejector pin to capture the spring on it. Ensuring that the spring remained caught beneath the ejector pin, I pushed the ejector pin further into the frame using a small punch until the end of the pin was flush against the outside of the frame. This puts the other end of the ejector pin almost touching the striker safety lever (but not quite). You don't want it touching the striker safety lever as it will prevent it from moving freely.
With the sear spring now in position, I checked the reinstalled components to ensure everything was working as it should. I checked the trigger reset to ensure it was working properly. One of the other PRP trigger kits comes with a new sear which requires fitting. It is possible to have improper trigger reset when the fit is wrong. I discovered this as I was doing some research online scanning a few how-to videos. This was part of the reason I opted for this kit that retained the factory sear.
The last two frame related items from the trigger kit left to be installed were the new PRP trigger and the PRP trigger bar spring. Like the sear spring, the trigger bar spring is also a reduced power spring....and it comes with a blue competition lighter weight alternate as well. The wire diameter of the competition spring measured .031" while the reduced power spring measured .040". Assuming the same spring material is used, the smaller diameter spring offers less resistance and so contributes to a lighter trigger pull.
For the trigger replacement, I started by removing the disassembly lever. When the slide was first removed, the lever was left in the 12 o'clock position. I rotated the lever back and forth between the 10 and 11 o'clock position while pulling on it. It disengaged from the far side of the frame as shown above. I continued rocking it back and forth while pulling on it and it came completely out of the frame.
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