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The last step for this part of the install is the factory ejector. With it in position, I tapped the sear pin flush with the groove in the frame rail. In the above photo, the sear spring is not yet in its final position. To get that taken care of, I pushed/tapped the ejector pin a small amount until it protruded about a 3/16" through the ejector. I had to wiggle the ejector just a bit to get it lined up with the ejector pin. Once the ejector pin was through its hole in the ejector, I pushed the end of the sear spring down and around the end of the ejector pin to capture the spring. Using a small punch, I tapped the end of the ejector pin flush against the frame.
With the sear spring now in position, I checked the reinstalled components to
ensure everything was working as it should. I checked the trigger reset
and it was working just as it should. One of the other PRP trigger kits
comes with a new sear which requires fitting. It is possible to have
improper trigger reset when the fit is wrong. I discovered this as I was
doing some research online scanning a few how-to videos.
The last two items from the trigger kit I installed were the trigger and the
trigger bar spring. Like the sear spring, the trigger bar spring is also a
reduced power spring. While I was installing the sear spring, I checked
the wire diameter with a vernier caliper. It was .004" smaller than the
factory sear spring. One may not think this makes much of a difference,
but it did as I could actually feel it as I repeatedly squeezed both springs.
Time to get the new trigger installed. To do that, I started by removing
the disassembly lever. When the slide was removed, the lever was in the 12
o'clock position. Rotate the lever back and forth between the 10 and 11
o'clock position while pulling on it. It will disengage from the far side
of the frame as shown above. Continue rocking it back and forth while
pulling and it will come out of the frame.
Two pins need to be pushed out of the frame, as shown above. I prefer to
push mine from the side shown in the photo. I used a brass punch and
hammer to tap them through.
They do not have to be completely removed from the frame. Once they clear
the locking block, that is all the further they need to go, as shown above.
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