Here again, Franks write-up for air box relocation provided the required information with only a few minor changes. Required items for this portion of the project include the 2" rubber pipe coupling and 2 - 3" hose clamps.
1. From the center of the PCV hose nipple, measure 2-1/4"
toward the bellowed end and mark accordingly. Measure at least two more times
to insure it is correct.
2. Cut the air tube at this location with either a hacksaw or miter saw. Cut as straight as possible.
3. Clean all frayed plastic from the edges of this cut on the tube half with the nipple.
4. Take the tube half with the bellows and measure 7-1/2", from the cut you just made, toward the bellows and mark accordingly. Again measure at least twice.
5. Cut the tube on this mark as straight as possible using the hacksaw or miter saw.
6. Clean all frayed plastic from the edges of this cut on the tube half with the bellows.
This is what you should have at this point. See Figure 1.
Now to reconnect the two halves. Franks write-up utilizes a 2-1/8" ID stainless steal exhaust pipe as an inner sleeve, some minor reshaping of the tube is required and 2 - 4" hose clamps. See Frank's write-up for more details on this method.
To connect the two halves, I used a 2" rubber pipe coupler from Home Depot and 2 - 3" hose clamps from the salvage yard. However, all of these parts can be purchased from Home Depot/Lowe's to secure the two ends together.
6. Firmly push the 2" rubber pipe coupler into position (lubrication may be needed to assist) with the two 3" pipe clamps and leave the hose clamps loose. See Figure 2.
7. Trial fit and make the required adjustments to the connected tubes prior to tightening the hose clamps. See Figure 3.
8. Optional finishing touch - Clean and wipe down the air box pieces with Armour All for that professional look.
Grab the nearest cold beverage, sit back and enjoy/admire a project well done. Good job.
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