Well, now it is time to pretty much reverse the steps we took in
getting to this point. From here on, it was pretty smooth sailing to the
finish line. You won't see quite as many photos on this half of the
project, since you are now an expert on the inside of a t-case!
After removing the old and now "empty" rear case, I
put the new Tera case up on the bench. I tossed the old papers, which were
pretty much soaked with old ATF. Alan broke out a tube of white grease
(that moly, poly, something or the other kind of grease) and I applied a bit to
the outside of the front output shaft bearing.
Alan has, over the years, acquired a bunch of old bearings and has taken them apart so as to claim the outer shell. He uses them as spacers to press other bearings into place. Given enough of these various sized shells, he has a pretty good selection from which to pick and choose. Here is a little something he came up with for me to start pressing the bearing into position. I finished it with a small drift punch and a ball peen hammer. Then the snap-ring was carefully put into its groove. Finally, the new replacement seal from Tera was coated with some of the grease and pushed into place with the help of a rubber shot-filled mallet. Use something like this (or rawhide or plastic) so you don't bang up the seal body and cause it to leak.
Next, I grabbed the six case studs that we have pulled earlier
and ran the threads against the wire wheel to clean up the old "goop"
that was used to secure them in place.
Once the studs were cleaned up, Alan gave me a tap (we couldn't
find the proper sized thread chaser) and a I ran the holes in the new case just
to make sure they were clean. This step was probably not necessary, but
hey, we had the stuff available and besides that, Alan wasn't charging me an
hourly rate to use his garage!
With the studs nice and clean, and the holes cleaned out, I put
a couple of drops of Loctite (supplied with the 4:1 kit) on the first couple of
threads on the stud and used the stud puller to screw them back into the Tera
rear housing. In the photo above, I am just finishing up the last stud and
will then wipe off the excess Loctite from the studs.
Next, I installed the shift sector and put the range fork in
place. Don't forget the o-ring and nylon bushing when you put the shift
lever on the shift sector shaft. In the photo above, Alan is using the
torque wrench to snug the shift sector detent cap down to the 15 ft. lbs. called
for in the instructions.
Here is a really good shot of the Tera shift sector, which is supplied with the 2LO kit. If you count the detent notches on top, you will see that there is an extra position up there when compared to the photo taken of the stock shift sector. You can also clearly see how the new Tera range fork engages the shift sector. The new range fork is also supplied with the 2LO kit.
Here is another pic, sent to me by another 2LO owner, showing the difference between the factory and Tera shift sectors. The extra position for 2Low can be easily seen along with the change in the machining to accommodate it.
At this point, we put the remaining parts into the case assembly. Those included the mode fork, shift rail, mode sleeve, and mode spring. All that remained was to now put the two case sections together and pray that everything worked when we did.
I used some more of the carb cleaner and a few rags and worked
on cleaning up the sealing surfaces of the front and rear sections. The
rear section (new from Tera) was easy to do....a few squirts, wipe it with a dry
rag, and it was done. The front section took a bit longer. Don't
rush through this process since you want to be sure you have a clean and oil
free surface before you start squeezing RTV sealant onto the mating
surfaces. I got everything cleaned up as good as I could and then did a
second scan of the inside of the cases to make sure I had not left something
out. Once satisfied that everything was as it should be, it was time to
seal things up.
We stood the Tera case up, as shown in the picture above. While Alan steadied the lower case, laid a bead of RTV sealant on the mating surfaces. After that was done, I took the front case and carefully set it down on the rear case. It took a couple of minutes to get everything lined up....it little bit of wiggling things around, poking here and there with a screw driver, trying to get the gears to mesh properly, making sure none of the mode or range forks got out of whack....etc. We were down to about a 3/4" gap between the tow cases and then everything just slipped together all at once. Hey....I wasn't going to argue with success!
We stuffed a couple of bolts through a few holes and snugged them up just enough to ensure that things would not come apart. We then laid the t-case on its side. My first concern was to make sure nothing had slipped inside while we were assembling the cases. To test everything, I spun the input shaft while I walked the shift lever through its 5 positions.....2HI...4HI...N...4LO...2LO.... YES SIR! Everything slipped right into position with no binding or other problems. The output shafts all engaged at their proper times. I knew then that the mode/range forks and the shift sector were all working just like they should be. We then put in the remaining case bolts and torqued them to the proper spec.
Once that was done, the front output yoke was attached, but not torqued down tight. I didn't have my factory manual with me at Alan's and I was not sure about a very chewed up o-ring that was under the nut of the output yoke. As I write this, I still haven't looked it up yet. I'll have to see if it is suppose to be there and if so, I'll need to spend $.50 or so and get a new one, since it looked pretty bad.
Here she be! The final product. I need to paint the front yoke and then it will be ready to swap into Lady. I am already excited about getting out on the trail and trying my new found 75:1 crawl ratio, not to mention 2LO
More of Round #2
4x4 Off-Road Homestead Firearms RC Flying