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Toys by Troy Alumi-flex
Cross-Over Steering
by Ross Hancock

Note:  Toys by Troy shut down their operation at the end of 2007.  Instead of removing this write-up, I am leaving it on the web site for a couple of reasons.  The steps for installing it are pretty much the same as one from another manufacturer and so you'll get an idea of what is involved if you decide to do this type of modification.  If you happen to come across one on the used market, you'll have some information about it that can help you do the installation correctly.
 

Comments from Stu: 

Ross contacted me via e-mail and wanted to know if I would be interested in an Alumi-flex steering write-up.  He was getting ready to do one on his own vehicle and knew I didn't have one on the site.  While I've installed a couple of them, I had not done my TJ and so I didn't take any good pics or do a write-up.  I provided Ross the necessary info I needed in regards to a write-up and within a couple of weeks, he had forwarded me the fruits of his labor.  So here is Ross' write-up.  Thanks again Ross for taking the time to document your installation.

Ross's write-up:

First thing is plan to be patient, this is not for the novice. Expect more than a day to do it because there is always something that you either do not have or a bump you run into. This install is also based on my Jeep and the tools I had access too.
 

When the steering kit arrives, do a quick parts inventory to make sure you have everything.  Nothing can be more frustrating than getting half way into the project and then finding out you have an extra right hand jam nut and you're missing a left hand nut.  Make sure you have the following parts:

(2) TBT knuckles, one drivers side and one passenger side (with new high steer bracket)
(1) TBT axle mounting bracket (For Traction Bar and Steering Stabilizer)
(1) Tie rod - AlumiFlex
(1) Traction bar - AlumiFlex
(1) Drag link - AlumiFlex
(2) One-ton standard TRE (one left hand threaded and one right hand threaded)
(2) One-ton high misalignment TRE (one left hand threaded and one right hand threaded)
(4) TRE boots and grease zerts
(1) Traction bar bushing fitting (axle mount)
(1) Heim joint (3/4" x 3/4") (frame mount to be used with Rubicon Express traction bar bracket)
(1) Pitman arm (drilled to accept one-ton TRE)
(2) Mis-alignment spacers (3/4" x 1/2")
(2) 1/2" bolts, nuts and washers (for traction bar mounting)

A close-up of the passenger side knuckle. 

A close-up of the new bracket.  This will mount one end of the steering stabilizer and the front track bar on the D30 axle. 

Tools Needed:
-Welder (I used a MillerMatic Mig Machine)
-Ball Joint Separator
-Pitman Arm Puller
-NeverSeize (recommended, not required, I used this on all bolts and nuts)
-Assembly Lube (recommended, not required)
-Assorted Sockets and Wrenches
-Ball Joint Press/Puller (if replacing ball joints, recommended)
-Torque Wrench
-Grease Gun
-Grinder (get cutting blades and grinding discs)

Start by jacking up the Jeep.  Put jack stands under the front axle and also support the frame near the front, a little back from the axle. You will need to remove the passenger front spring in order to weld the TBT bracket and the jack stands under the axle will have to come out to drop the axle far enough to get the spring out. This is where the jack stands under the front of the frame come to use. Of course, if you have access to a vehicle lift then you will have an easier time.

Remove the wheels, brake calipers, rotors, and axles. Be sure to zip tie the calipers out of the way so you are not fighting them the whole time. Once you get those removed and tied up, it is time to remove the steering setup you have and the steering stabilizer. This can also be a good time to remove the pitman arm you have installed on the Jeep. After those items are removed, move on to the knuckles.

To remove the knuckles, use the ball joint separator after you remove the nuts. I had planned on replacing the ball joints since I had over 50,000 miles on my Jeep with 35" tires, so I thought this would be an opportune time. I did not want to have to come back later and remove everything again. Yes it cost $200 for a set of MOOG ball joints, but in my opinion they are worth it. I messed up my ball joints up when I removed them (without trying to) so be careful if you are re-using them.

Next comes the traction bar, the sway bar connects from the axle, and the passenger side shock. Doing this will allow you to remove the passenger side spring. I had to remove the jack stand and lower the axle to the ground with the floor jack in order to get the spring out. Once the spring is out, remove the lower bump stop. Now that this is done, jack the axle back up and place the jack stand back under it.

The front of your TJ should now look something like this .  Note the absent passenger side spring, no steering, and no knuckles. 

More Alumi-flex Steering