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Rear Disc Brake Conversion
 

Although not required, my SoCal buddy decided he wanted to make a little modification to the caliper bracket. He drilled and tapped a 10x24 in the bracket.  (note the hole just off the end of my finger)

You can see the 10x24 screw in this photo.  The end result?  Well, when I take out those two bolts that previously held the dust shield and caliper bracket together, the two parts will still be screwed together.  It makes it a little bit easier to handle it as an "assembly" when everything stays together easily.  Once we start putting the brake shoes and springs on, keeping everything together just makes it easier, especially when you are trying to get everything attached while the axle shaft is being put back into the tube.  Note that you do NOT need to do this little modification, but I sure am glad we did.

Earlier, I mentioned that we needed some 3/8" grade 8 bolts.  These will be used to secure the retrainer plate and bracket to the end of the axle flange.  The factory uses pressed in studs, but these will now be too short and so you will need to remove them.  A 1 1/4" bolt will do the job nicely.  In order for it to properly fit at the axle flange, a flat spot on the bolt head was needed.  Not too hard when you have the right tool handy.

After a few seconds, the bolt has a nice flat spot ground on it.  Do the same to the remaining seven bolts.  You'll use four of these bolts on each axle flange, replacing the factory pressed in studs.
 

Next, you will need to remove the factory drum brakes.  In the picture above, a socket is used to reach the four nuts that hold the factory retainer plate in place.  As was suggested to me...."just get the brake shoes and springs and such off".  Since they are not going back on, no biggie in what order you take the stuff apart, as long as you get it all off.  None of it will be used for the conversion.
 

Once you have removed the axle shaft and the brake components, you are left with the four studs in the axle flange.
 

With a brass hammer in hand, a few light taps were all that was needed to pop the studs out of the axle flange.
 

Take four of the 3/8" grade 8 bolts that you ground a flat spot on slip them into the axle flange.  When you do, you will see why you needed to grind a flat spot on the bolt head.
 

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