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With the torsion tube properly in position, we slipped the short passenger arm onto the torsion tube splines. The arm fit directly up against the bushing and was nearly flush with the end of the splines. We put a 3/8" bolt in and just barely snugged it down.
Next was the driver's side arm. It has two different sized spline hubs that are welded together. Make sure the torsion tube does not push over towards the passenger side while sliding the arm onto the tube. Mike held the passenger side arm in position while I made sure I had the arm lined up and horizontal to the ground (like the passenger arm). I slid the larger hub opening onto the torsion tube and up flush against the bushing. Make sure you check to see that the splines fully engage the hub on the arm. If they do not, you probably don't have the bushings completely seated against the cross-member or the torsion tube slid a bit while you were putting on the arm.
Next we slipped the torsion bar (the solid shaft with splines on each end) into the torsion tube from the passenger side. As Mike pushed the bar through, I lined up the splines for the smaller hub on the driver's arm. I inserted a 3/8" bolt into the cross-hole of the outer hub (the larger one) and snugged it down just a bit.
With the torsion shaft now in position, we needed to anchor it in place (for a bit). ORO supplies a flathead cap screw along with a matching aluminum washer for just this purpose. The center of the torsion shaft is tapped to fit this screw.
I threaded the flathead cap screw into the end of the torsion shaft. The install instructions said to not tighten it too much....just snug it up a little as it will be coming off soon.
Back at the passenger end, I slipped the aluminum bushing over
the inner shaft. It has a collar that slides into the torsion tube itself
and so this centers the shaft within the tube. Previous units have used a
brass bushing and when I asked Steve about the change, he told me that they were
having me try this one to see how it holds up. So if your unit comes with
a brass bushing, now you know why.
With the bushing in place, I slipped the larger passenger arm
onto the torsion bar. To make it easier, the install docs recommend you
take one of the 1/2" nuts and place it between the latch cover and the air
cylinder actuator. You can see it in the above photo. This keeps the
latch from engaging the notch on the shorter arm.....which make lining up the
longer arm much easier. This arm should line up the same as the other two,
horizontal to the ground and equal to each other. When the arm was in
position, I took the other flathead cap screw and the aluminum washer and
screwed it into the torsion shaft, as we had done on the driver's side.
Doing this ensures that the arm is pulled onto the torsion shaft as far as it
We were almost there! The install instructions now had us remove both of the flathead cap screws and washers so we could check the alignment. The shaft should be almost flush with the outer edge of the arms on both sides, as shown above. As I mentioned before, if the shaft seems short, it is because the bushings are not up flush against the cross-member or the arms are not flush against the bushings. The install instructions provide more details on what to do if you are having problems with this step.
When all was lined up correctly, we screwed the flathead cap screws (and washers) back into the torsion shaft. Mike then went around to all of the 3/8" bolts and snugged them down to 40 ft. pounds using a torque wrench.
I had black links on my AR and I wanted black links on my SwayLOC....so out came the semi-flat Krylon rattle can and the links were painted before being assembled. When the links were dry, I threaded the jam nuts onto the rod ends and then threaded the ends into the link stock. Since my AR was setup the same way (with the sway arms horizontal), I set the length of the new links to the same length as my old links. The install instructions gives you some guidance on doing this and if you have not done it before, be sure to follow the directions.
I'll mention here that I decided to use anti-seize compound on all of the bolt threads. While we are not likely to have rust issues here in central Arizona (compared to the folks that live in the snow belt), I decided that the dissimilar metals (the aluminum links) and the bolts holding the arms in place would certainly do better with a little help from that oh-so messy tube of goop.
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