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Push the torsion bar out of the tube and then remove the tube and bushings from the cross member. I used a hard rubber mallet to tap the torsion tube at one end and push the tube/bushing out the other. The tube may be a tight fit in the bushing and so a rubber mallet works well for knocking it off the torsion tube, if need be.
Here is the business end of the torsion tube (original on the left, and the upgrade tupe on the right). You can clearly see the difference between the two....wall thickness has been increased. My trusty-rusty vernier caliper showed the old tube at about .095" wall thickness. The new torsion tube has been increased to .120" wall thickness, a 30% increase. Assuming the same material is being used (and I assume it is), that means a guaranteed stiffer sway bar for the street and highway compared to the original configuration.
I'll note here that if you are purchasing a new SwayLOC (which would be the Generation II version), the torsion tube is .250" and the torsion bar is 3/4" for the entire length. This will result in less body roll on the highway and increased torsion control off-road.
If you were wondering why that bushing you removed earlier would no longer be used, here is the reason. The new torsion tube, with its thick wall, now uses up the clearance that was there from the thinner walled torsion tube. Here is a picture of the torsion bar slid into the new torsion tube. As you can see, it is fairly tight fit. No alignment bushing will be used when this all goes back together.
Speaking of all back together, it is time to begin the reassembly using the new parts. Install the new torsion tube using the original cross member bushings. Center the new tube in the bushings and make certain the bushings are sitting flush up against the cross member.
ORO provides a tube of Loctite Viper-Lube for use with the new torsion tube. Apply a liberal coating on the inside ends of the torsion tube, getting it about 3~4" down the tube. This high pressure synthetic corrosion preventing grease basically takes the places of the bushing from the original setup. It will allow the inner bar to rotate in the torsion tube when you have the latch assembly unlocked for off-road travel.
Apply a liberal coating to the ends of the torsion bar where it contacts the
inner section of the new torsion tube. Since there is no alignment washer
any more, you want to ensure that the inner bar rotates easily within the tube.
On the driver side, even though there is no actual rotation between the bar and
tube, a good
coating of grease will help ensure that the next time you take your SwayLOC
apart, the torsion bar will be easy to separate from the torsion tube.
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