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ORO SwayLOC Upgrade
 

With the grease applied to the inside of the torsion tube and the end of the torsion bar, slide the the bar into the tube.  Some of the grease may wipe off the end of the bar so apply again if necessary.  Center the torsion bar within the tube.

 

 

I used a bit of anti-seize on the splines to make sure future removal would not be a major undertaking.  At the driver's side of the SwayLOC, slide the arm onto the tube and bar.  Check the passenger end to ensure you didn't push either out that side.  Tighten the pinch bolts a bit but not completely....just enough to prevent the arm from slipping on the spines. 



I took the previously removed flathead cap screw and the matching aluminum washer and added a small flat washer that ORO had supplied with the upgrade.  This washer prevents one from over-tightening the end caps which may result in shorter torsion bar life if stressed.  This was then threaded into the end of the torsion bar on the driver's side.  I didn't tighten it completely until I got the other end mounted in position. 


It was time to swap out the latching mechanism on the outer passenger arm.  As I understand it, the latch assembly has been upgraded in a couple of areas. 

 

The new latch assembly is shown above with the original still mounted on the arm.  One of the most noticeable changes was the addition of another air line connector to the air cylinder.  This 2nd connector serves as a vent port that is threaded and has a fitting and a 4 ft length of airline (plugged at one end) that acts as an expansion chamber.  The cylinder may now operate underwater and should not draw any water/mud/muck into the air cylinder body.  The air cylinder is now ALL  stainless steel construction. 




I removed the four metric screws holding the latch assembly onto the control arm.  A new attachment design for the air cylinder into the latch cover plate eliminates some of the bind that may be the culprit on latches sticking open issues. I  could flex the cover plate about 25~30 degrees....no bind there anymore, for sure. 



The latch itself has a diagonal cut on it in the area that travels within the arm.  While I've not ready anything as to the design change, it would seem to me that this provides a means for the latch to help clean itself when operated.  Any dirt or mud that gets between the latch and the arm would now have a path by which to exit the contact area.  I could be wrong but I am betting this may be the reason for it.  Don't forget to transfer the spring from the old latch to the new one.


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