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Slide the inner arm onto the splines of the torsion tube. Place the new plastic spacer over the torsion rod. This sets the spacing between the two arms but no longer aligns the torsion bar within the torsion tube as did the old bushing. Slide the outer arm (with the newly installed latch assembly) onto the splines of the torsion bar.
The aluminum washer that fits the flat head screw for this end will cause a slight clearance problem when doing the upgrade. I opted to simply remove a portion of the thick washer until I arrived at a suitable clearance. Steve at ORO mentioned that one could get a fender washer and use it in place of this one (the thinner washer would fit beneath the air fitting). Don't forget to use the small washer here, just like you did on the driver's side.
As can be seen in this picture, no problem clearing the air fitting. In my opinion, this is the best way to fit it all together.
Check everything again to make sure you don't have any gaps between the cross member bushings and the arms. Also make sure the outer arm is flush up against the plastic spacer. When you are satisfied with the fit and placement, tighten the pinch bolts and the captive screws too.
Attach the hose to the vent port on the air cylinder and route it out of harms way. Running it back along the same path the supply line takes works well. A couple of zip ties to hold the two together will put the wraps on it.
That is about it as far as the upgrades are concerned. A reminder for all SwayLOC owners....do some periodic maintenance on your hardware. It takes about 15 minutes to drop the links and pull the arms to make sure all is good. While I don't have much of an issue here in dry Arizona, lots of folks that face those salty winter driving conditions and the muddy trails during the summer months need to realize that proper lubrication is required. Granted, it doesn't have a grease fitting on it, but that doesn't mean you don't need to periodically strip it down and lube it.....my Warn hubs don't have grease fittings either....but they get taken apart so the bearings can be checked and repacked. You should know by now that coating things with mud (and soaking them in muddy water) can cause problems. Include your SwayLOC on your regular maintenance schedule and you'll get many years of good performance from it.
I've managed to sneak in a few around town trips with the TJ and a couple of runs down the freeway as well. I can detect the difference in handling and I like it. The front end is stiffer (firmer) when cornering and there is yet still less body roll than before. I stopped by Toys by Troy and let Troy take it for a spin. When he got back from his high speed dash down the street, he asked me when I was going to work on the rear sway bar. He said that the front felt great but he now feels the rear sway needs some attention. Heck, I was happy with how the front end felt....wasn't paying any attention to the rear. I think I read that someone was doing a heavier sway bar for the rear....time to go looking for some info!
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