Meanwhile, back at the ranch, you should have a lightly rusted rotor by now. If you don't, you didn't get the protective coating completely removed from the rotor's surface. Don't worry about the rust, it will be gone at the first application of your brakes when you seat the pads. Grab one of the rotors to attach to the Warn hubs.
I used my hydraulic press again, this time, to press the wheel studs through the holes in the rotor and into the hub. Be sure to fully seat the studs against the surface of the rotor. Repeat this process for the remaining four wheel studs.
Now that you have the Warn hub and new rotor assembled, it is time to put the steering knuckle from the kit on the axle. Before that is done, remove the two bolts (boxed in red) in the above photo (they were just barely tight on mine) and set them aside. Carefully note the position of the brackets and the two round spacers. (hint....do not disassemble the other knuckle so that you'll have a completed one for reference, just in case) Set the caliper aside.
Slide the new steering knuckle onto the upper and lower ball joint studs. Thread the castle nuts onto each ball joint stud. Torque the upper ball joint to 75 foot pounds and the lower ball joint to 80 foot pounds. Use the new cotter pins supplied with the kit to secure the castle nuts on both of the ball joint studs.
Slide the axle shaft back into position in the axle tube. With the axle shaft seated into the housing, set the spindle in the knuckle and align the three mounting holts. Use the bolts you set aside to secure the spindle in position. The bolts are torqued to 75 foot pounds.
Install the wheel bearing into the outer end of the hub. Apply a thin coating of grease onto the shank of the spindle and slide the hub/rotor assembly back onto the spindle.
From here, it is a simple matter of installing the spindle nuts and torquing them to spec. Rather than repeating the entire process here, you can get the details from the last page of my hub conversion install write-up.
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