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D30 Ball Joint Replacement


It's pretty much simple stuff from here on out. Just follow the directions that came with the ball joint press; although the adapters really only fit in the press one way, so it's pretty much a no-brainer. This is what the press will look like with the adapters in place to remove the upper ball joint.

Start tightening the press down with a breaker bar until the ball joint pops out of place. It will literally snap once it breaks loose, but don't worry, it's not going anywhere. Keep tightening the press until the ball joint is fully removed. Loosen the press and remove everything.

For the lower ball joint you can devise a plan the go through the upper ball joint hole, or else you can jack up the axle and put the press in upside down. I do not have a pic, but its pretty much exactly the same setup as the upper ball joint, just turn the press upside down

Ok, so now the ball joints are removed and you are ready to re-install some shiny new ones. I opted for some regular Spicer ball joints, but some people prefer the Moog joints. Choose wisely. I do everything in the opposite order and just use the installing adapters. Before I start, I like to mock everything up and make sure I know how its all going to fit. Install the lower ball joint first since the axle should still be high enough to put the press upside down. This allowed me to use the adapters as intended with no extra pieces. Line up the ball joint into the inner C, and assemble the press as shown. You will see the press is in line with the angle of the inner C; that's courtesy of the specific adapters for the Jeep application. The installer cup is angled keeping the press applying pressure in the proper direction so the ball joint does not bind. The ball joint goes in fairly smooth until the last inch or so. If it's not going in easily, there might be something wrong. Stop! Remove the press, look at the ball joint to see if it's going in on an angle, then make sure the press is in line and try again.



Tighten the press until the ball joint seats; you will probably need a breaker bar to fully seat it.





The lower ball joint is installed!

Now on to the upper, you are almost all done with one side!



If you jacked up the axle to use the press as I did, you will need to lower the axle so the press fits in right side up. Do the same process as the lower; mock up the adapters and the ball joint so you know how it will fit.


Crank on the press just as before and then bust out the breaker bar for that last little bit. Fully seat the ball joint and then remove the press.

And there you have it, two new ball joints!



So, now you have some work to do before you go to the other side. If you are doing one at a time, you will need to re-install the knuckle. Simply put the knuckle into place and tighten the lower castle nut to 75 ft lbs. Then put the nut on the upper ball joint and tighten that to 70 ft lbs. Install the cotter pins and then put the TRE back on the steering arm. Tighten that castle nut to 35 ft. lbs. and install a new cotter pin. Apply some fresh grease to the splines of the axleshaft and where the seal rides and slide the axleshaft/hub assembly back into the housing. Don't forget the dust shield or forget it, it doesn't really matter. Tighten the three bolts from the back side of the knuckle to 75 ft. lbs. Slide the rotors on, install the calipers and tighten the caliper bolts to 11 ft. lbs. Put the tire back on and go do everything to the other side!

Wait, you aren't done yet, you may need to reset your toe-in.

Ok, now you are done!



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