The positive cable of the winch was next to be attached. It became apparent that it was a little short unless we took the time to re-route the cable through the engine compartment. In making up for the delay in delivering the kit, Kodiak had included a in-line 500 amp winch fuse. The fuse kit had a 12" jumper included with it which made up the necessary length we were lacking.
The in-line fuse required a mounting location and after evaluating all options, the end of the air box was chosen as the best location to place the fuse holder. It was within reach of the slightly short winch cable and close enough to the batteries so the jumper would reach.
The fuse is a little different looking than what we are used to finding under the hood or behind the glove box. This is due to it's in-line configuration and the need to flow 500 amps of current without a significant voltage drop. As such, the fuse bolts into the holder rather than the typical spring loaded clip or plug.
Here is a pic of the complete fuse block assembled and ready to do it's job. Buss, the maker of the fuse block, uses a thin plastic shield to cover the terminals and prevent any shorts to ground that could occur while wrenching in the engine compartment.
Here is the business of the manager harness where it interfaces with the solenoid. The harness came pre-terminated with quality connectors and terminal boots. The instructions for this part were very clear as to how to properly connect it. The harness is about 5' long and is designed to penetrate the fire wall (grommet supplied) although we used the ever popular oval shaped firewall plug located above the gas pedal to route it into the cab.
This end of 5' long harness terminates in a 4 pin plug. The mating 4 pin connector provides a working pigtail harness that includes the switch and LED indicator. The last electrical connection needed for this end of the project is a 12V switched ignition source. The parts for this connection are included in the kit. For those folks with early model TJs, you can find a 3 amp switched source behind the glove box. For later year vehicles, you will need to tap an ignition wire with the supplied wire tap.
It was time to test our handiwork. With the ignition switch turned on, the LED illuminated and the solenoid could be heard cycling on and off as the mode switch selected the main and/or auxiliary batteries.
(Stu back at the keyboard now.)
I want to thank Robert for letting me help him wire up his dual battery setup. I think it was a Tom Sawyer thing....he knows how it is when I get around an electrical project (ha ha).
But really.....it was fun wrenching with Robert and I am quite sure his new dual battery configuration will do an excellent job. I was totally impressed with the quality of the hardware, etc. that was included in the kit. I am hoping that the install instructions will be improved on in the future (I believe Robert already touched on that) as for some folks, it would leave them somewhat in a bind, in my opinion. Buy hey, it wouldn't be the first time they used a write-up from this site to get through the confusing parts of the manufacturers documentation.
Perhaps some day I will get something like this installed in my TJ. I can think of a few times where I managed to load test my battery with the head lights and found myself in need of a battery jump from someone else in the parking lot. We all know it happens and this is one easy way to prevent it.
Good trails and remember to TREADLightly!
4x4 Off-Road Homestead Firearms RC Models