You can see the rubber isolator sandwiched between the mounting foot and the mounting plate. I like this idea a lot. Once I was ready to tighten the mounting bolts, I did so until I started to see a bit of bulge from the rubber isolator. With the Nyloc nut on the mounting bolt, I new it would not vibrate loose and the rubber would give me the benefit of some "shock mounting". I'm not sure if that was the intended purpose but for me, it looks like it will do just that and so it is.
With the remaining mount bolts tightened, here is a pic of the LED light bar on the mounting plate. I would have preferred to mount it to the bottom of the bumper's mounting plate but it would have placed the light bar too close to the winch fairlead. The last thing I need is the synthetic winch line getting in a fight with the light bar. The light bar looks very well made but it would not stand up to the forces of an off-angle pull during a vehicle recovery.
Here is a pic of the switch kit's plug that attaches to the wiring pigtail on the light bar. I'm not sure if this is a water proof or water resistant connector. Regardless, it will go a long way in helping to keep the pin contacts corrosion free. Corrosion on electrical connections is probably the most common cause of component and/or circuit related failure.
Speaking of water proof, I was doing some digging on the Extreme LED
Light Bars web site and found specs for the LED light bar itself.
It carries an IP67 rating which according to the FAQ on the web, breaks down to
I routed the switch kit harness from the front bumper into the engine compartment following the same route my winch control cable travels. Once the harness was inside the hood, I cable tied it to the existing harness and routed it to The Source power center. By the way, if you aren't familiar with the sPOD and The Source power center, click on that link. It is an outstanding product for the serious off-road enthusiast.
I cut the switch kit's main power cable about 6 inches short of where it terminates in the power relay socket, after checking to ensure it would be long enough to reach the power center. Why? I had two empty slots (one now) in the power center. With an integral fuse and power relay, I did not need the rest of the switch kit. But it isn't wasted.....I left more than enough wire length coming off the switch kit's power relay to allow it to be used in some other project (probably by a friend). Here is a good place to mention that the light bar is reverse polarity protected so if you are clumsy enough to attaching the power leads backwards, your investment won't go up in smoke. Personally, I've never relied on anyone's reverse polarity protection and always double check my wiring before flipping the switch. That's just me....what can I say.
Using the macro setting on my camera, I snapped a close-up of one of the LEDs in the light bar. Amazing it is to think so much light is produced by such a tiny little "thing". This is what converts the 12V DC electrical current into useful light...and lots of it too. This newer generation of LED design is very efficient in producing light.
Looking at the specs on the web site, I noticed that this 14" light bar, with its 6 LEDs, draws a mere 4.26 amps of current at 12 VDC. That's just a bit over 50 watts of power converted into 5,400 lumens of trail illumination. What I like is that you don't have wiring carrying a high current load in the vehicle. That means little to no chance of the wiring over heating when it bundled with other wires (don't know about your TJ, but bundling wires together is very common in my TJ).
I wanted to comment on one other thing.....the reflectors used in the LED
light bar. This reflector is very smooth while the previous close-up was
not. Why so? This light bar provides both spot and flood lighting.
The two middle LEDs use spot light reflectors (smooth) and produce a 8-10 degree
beam of light. This reaches far down the trail or further out into the
field to help illuminate objects at distance. The two outer pairs of LEDs
have flood reflectors, producing a light beam that covers a 90 degree area in
front of the vehicle. This gives the driver improved coverage of what is
close up (think rocks in the trail), ditches, tree branches, turn offs, etc.
So this specific model provides both long and near distance illumination which
is a good combination for sure.
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