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Section Two - Surgery and Fabrication for the Bottom of Air Box


Since you have the bottom of the air box in your hands right now, we will start the real work here.

You are going to close off the rather large hole left from where the stock air horn was mounted. I did this by using the "Block-off" plate supplied with the Safari Snorkel. If you do not have this plate you will need to make one out of the 1/8-inch sheet aluminum plate. I have provided a template of this block-off plate. (After cutting and drilling this plate spray it with black to keep things looking neat if you care to.)




Align the block-off plate on the air box to cover the original air inlet horn hole. Hold it in place with a c-clamp and then drill 1/8-inch holes through the air box plastic using the block-off holes as your guide. (You will be putting rivets through these holes in another few steps.) Remove the c-clamp and block-off plate and clean up the holes you just drilled in the lower air box.

Using the black sensor safe RTV put a 1/8-inch bead on the outside of the air box around the large air inlet horn hole. Also put a bead around each hole you just drilled. Let this set for 5 minutes.

Place the block-off plate over the original air box inlet hole and line it up with the drilled holes. Hold the plate in place with the c-clamp. Get your rivets and rivet gun and rivet the block-off plate in place with 5 rivets. Remove clamp.

Put a bead of RTV on the outer edge of the block-off plate where it meets the air box. Also put a bead of RTV inside the air box where the block-off plate and original air inlet horn hole meet. Smooth RTV with your finger.

Dab a small drop of RTV on all rivets inside the air box.

Set lower half of air box aside to dry.





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