Since you are still inside the vehicle, you might as well grab a light and a wrench and remove the two nuts from the studs of the clutch master cylinder. Tucked up underneath the dash near the top of the clutch pedal, you will see where the linkage attaches to the pedal. It has some sort of crazy retainer bushing. After spending too much time trying to remove it, we separated the linkage from the clutch pedal with a small pry bar. You will also notice that the linkage has a sliding/spring loaded device on it. This sends clutch pedal position to the PCM. If you check closely, you will see that it has a couple of wires coming off of it. Follow the wires to a connector where you can disconnect them from the vehicle harness. When this is done, remove the master cylinder from the firewall.
Located on the bell housing, driver's side, you will find the clutch slave cylinder. It too is held in place with two nuts. Remove them and the slave cylinder can be detached from the bell housing. Note that the master and slave cylinders are connected together via a hard plastic line. There is NO reason to separate the master and slave cylinders from each other. Doing so can cause issues and will result in the cylinders needing to be bled before they can be used. Keeping them sealed eliminates this and makes for a good used component that you can sell.
We disconnected the cable(s) from the negative terminal of the battery and then removed the two bolts holding the starter in place.
At this point, most of the major components had been removed from the bell housing. The throttle position sensor (TPS) was removed along with the front and rear drive shafts. The transfer case has linkage going to it and this needs to be removed as does that same part of the linkage that is bracketed off of the transmission.
The nuts holding the tranny mounting plate to the transfer case skid were removed and the tail shaft of the transfer case was supported. At this point, the transfer case skid mounting bolts were removed. Some other items to be removed include the speed sensor electrical connector at the back of the transfer case and the 4WD switch electrical connector on the transfer case. Check the bell housing, transmission, and transfer case over carefully as you will most likely find wiring harness retainers that are holding the cables in place. These need to be removed or cut so that nothing is still attached to the tranny and t-case before they are separated from the engine.
The custom exhaust that was installed to accommodate my Alumi-flex lift was in the way. A Sawsall was put to good use and the exhaust pipe was cut on the passenger side. You will most likely not have to do this on your Jeep. It depends on what mods you may have done prior to your doing the AW-4 swap. The placement of the catalytic converter and the muffler size all come in to play when doing a major modification such as this.
If I was doing this project in the driveway, I would next remove the transfer case from the transmission. This makes the tranny quite a bit lighter and easier to manage. There are six studs that hold the transfer case to the transmission. Remove the nuts and the slide the transfer case off of the transmission's output shaft. Don't forget to disconnect the t-case shifter linkage and the electrical connectors for the speedometer sensor and 4WD switch.
After we were satisfied that all of the wiring harnesses and electrical connectors were removed, we grabbed the transmission jack and moved it into position to take the weight under the middle of the transmission. The bolts attaching the bell housing to the engine block were then removed. Note that there are two E12 bolts at the 11 and 1 o'clock positions. We lowered the tranny jack a bit so as to make the top of the tranny more accessible. The E12 bolts are also called star bolts. If you know what a Torx bolt looks like, this is a reverse Torx (or external Torx).
The screw jack that we had used at the output shaft of the t-case was now moved under the oil pan where we inserted a small block of wood to distribute the weight. By adjusting the height of the screw jack and the tranny jack, we were able to relieve the binding between the engine and transmission and separate the two from each other. It took some wiggling, pulling, and a little help from a small pry bar but all came apart just fine.
Just to make sure the rather heavy tranny/t-case load didn't get out of hand, I gave a shout to Jessie and he came over and gave us a hand (Bob on the left, Jessie on the right). Hey, someone had to take the pictures, right? Thanks Jessie for helping get it safely to the floor.
More AW-4 Tranny Swap
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