Okay, the brackets are now installed. The stock floor shifter is back in
place. Way back I removed some metal to make
the rubber boot fit better for the old Novak linkage type. Eventually I
will weld in some more metal, for now it is
firmly in place and sealed up nicely as ugly as it is from underneath. You
will not need the rubber bushing in the
shifter's lever, it was easy to cut out with a utility knife.
I should take a moment and tell you to remove your driveshaft. It makes the install much easier. The instructions claim that you can do it with the shaft in place but why deal with such a tight space if you don't have to. Unless of course you have "girly-man" hands and make a living doing moisturizing commercials. This is not how I make a living.
This is a neat little ball and socket end for the stock end of the shifter
cable. The ball end installs onto the stock
shifter, the socket threads onto the cable. Connect the two by pulling the
spring collar back and pop that sucker on.
The other end is a very effective pin and clevis type of connection. This in itself is a huge improvement over the old style.
Here it is all connected (without the shaft). Now you can adjust the cable which again is so easy and reinstall your shaft.
All installed. If your jeep has the stock linkage in it when you begin
your install, you don't even have to remove your
center console. One thing I choose to do was to cut the gate out of the
stock shifter. Reason is that I have a Tera 2 low in this case.
After positioning the cable to my liking, Neutral landed mid-gate and I did not
like this. The Dremel
tool with a reinforced cutting wheel made quick work of this.
I will skip my normal excited "farm-talk" and keep it clean. This is a super improvement over what I had in there before. People come over, I make them get in the Jeep and shift it before they are allowed to go in the house, I am thrilled. Very smooth, shifter only inhibited by the inner workings of the transfer case.
4x4 Off-Road Homestead Firearms RC Models