After the lock block/trigger pins were pushed through, the locking block itself was lifted out of the frame. Note the spring that fits in the side of the locking block. This is the slide stop lever spring. Makes sure it stays in place and doesn't fall out. Once the locking block is out, the slide stop lever can be lifted off of the frame.
At this point, the trigger was removed. I pressed the trigger towards the rear of the trigger guard and then pushed it up and out of the frame. Note that the trigger bar is attached to the trigger. It slips into a pair of holes on the trigger.
PRP supplies two springs to replace the trigger bar spring. One is a reduced power spring and the other blue colored spring is an extra light competition spring. I opted for the reduce power spring and replaced the factory spring when the new PRP trigger was installed. I noticed that the PRP spring and factory spring is different in length. As such, the PRP spring will not work properly with the factory trigger....not that a person would use it for that.
With the new trigger and trigger bar spring attached to the factory trigger bar, they were inserted back into the frame. Reassembly was accomplished by installing the parts back into the frame in the reverse order they were removed. Easy enough to do.
Once all back together, I was anxious to see how much an improvement had been made. I still have a pair of springs for the slide assembly but wanted to verify the new trigger pull before committing to swapping those springs.
I broke out my Lyman electronic trigger pull gauge to check the new parts. Before I initially disassembled the sub-compact, I conducted a 10 pull average which came out to 6 pounds, 10 ounces. After a handful of trigger pulls to make sure all was working correctly, another 10 pull average was performed with the results being 4 pounds, 10 ounces.
The new parts and reduced power springs took two pounds off the trigger pull. I was very satisfied with that. I was also very impressed with the notable lack of trigger take up (pre-travel). The over travel was all but eliminated....I can barely detect it, assuming there is much to detect. Given this will be used for part time carry as well as a range practice, I'm holding off on the installation of the two springs in the slide. At nearly 4.5 pounds, I'm OK with that trigger pull. I do not want anything lighter.
I just broke out my other XD9 that has the older style Powder River Precision trigger kit in it for a little side-by-side comparison. I don't think I can tell the two apart....they are that close. I'll have to break out the trigger pull gauge to see just how close they are. The pre-travel and reset lengths seem to be the same. I paid a few dollars more for this new drop in kit but I really appreciate the fact I didn't have to do any fitting. Well worth the extra bucks in my opinion.
After I get a little trigger time with the XD9 sub-compact, I'll report back how it is doing. At this point, I am very pleased with the kit and would recommend it to anyone....especially based on the good results I've had since putting the first kit in my other XD9. It would seem the Powder River Precision is continuing to produce a good product.
I spent part of the day at the range today with a co-worker. We worked on the red dot optic on his AR-15 and then we spent some time shooting handguns. I brought the XD9 sub-compact with some of my range reloads. It met my expectations and then some. My range partner checked out several trigger pulls and agreed that the trigger felt pretty good. I'll consider this upgrade a complete success until someone can show me something better for the same price or less.
Update: 2/13/2012 My range buddy recently stopped by so we could install the same trigger kit in his XD45 5" pistol. The install went well and we were done in about 15~20 minutes. We used my electronic trigger pull gauge and took some before and after readings. We saw a net improvement of just over 2 pounds....virtually the same as what I got on my XD9 sub-compact.
After my buddy left, I pulled my XD9sc out of the safe to check the trigger pull. As I was doing so, I noticed that the center blade in the trigger was not reliably returning to the safe position after cycling the action and taking a dry press on the trigger.
The tip of the trigger's center blade (circled in red) rests against the locking block under normal conditions. When the center blade is depressed, it pivots away from the locking block and allows the trigger assembly to continue its travel.
So.....that tip was just a bit too long to reliably re-engage the surface on the locking block 100% of the time. I removed the trigger from the frame and using a small jeweler's file, took a small amount off of the tip. I reassembled the XD9sc and tested it. It was better but not quite right. Two more times, filing and checking, and it was working correctly. I'll keep an eye on it when I am at the range on the next trip.
Even though this is a drop in kit, it didn't quite drop in my XD9 sub-compact without a small bit of fitting.
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