We started about 8:30 AM on a Saturday. I had loaded the spare t-case into the back of the TJ along with the Tera 4:1 and 2LO kits. I had a Thermos full of hot coffee and a couple of bucks in my pocket in case we needed something at the last minute. Before I got to Alan's house (a very good friend that volunteered his garage bench and the necessary pile of tools), I stopped at AutoZone to get some carb cleaner. I wanted something to clean the residue off of the sealing surfaces when we started to RTV the parts back together. Mr. Murphy (of the infamous Murphy's Law) would strike only once during the t-case buildup, forcing me to return to AutoZone to pick up a tube of Permatex RTV sealant (the tube Tera was suppose to include in the 4:1 kit was missing.....or their parts list is out of date).
Alan had cleaned off the necessary bench space prior to my arrival.
When I pulled up into his driveway, he greeted me with the garage door open,
tool boxes unlocked, and a generous layer of newspaper spread across the
bench. I open the back of the TJ and carried the t-case to the
bench. I grabbed the Tera 4:1 case and set it near by, after I removed the
wooden backing plate from it. With instructions in hand, we fired up the
compressor and got to work.
Here is my spare t-case with the RE SYE and CV drive shaft
mounting flange sitting on the work bench. I bought the t-case with the CV
drive shaft from a local Jeeper (Joe West) a couple of months ago. When my
stock t-case is removed from Lady, it will be going back to Joe as a core
deposit, so to speak. Basically, I bought the RE SYE which just happened
to be installed on his t-case, so he gets mine back to even things out.
The first step was to drain the ATF from the t-case.
I grabbed my 10mm allen socket and put it on a 3/8" ratchet, but
couldn't budge the fill or drain plugs. Alan handed me a 3/8" impact
wrench and was I able to remove the drain plug. We finally had to switch to
the 1/2" impact wrench to get the fill plug removed. There was no way
anything was leaking past those plugs! With the plugs loosened, I set the
t-case on the oil catch pan to let the fluid drain out. Be sure to tip the
t-case all around and get as much out as you can....then try to get some more out. If
you don't, you'll have a pretty good ATF slick on your bench when you finally
separate the case sections.
Since the 1/2" impact wrench was handy, we slipped a 1
1/8" deep well impact socket on it and proceeded to remove the front yoke
nut. The torque spec on the yoke nut is about 110 ft. lbs. and I
wasn't going to bust any knuckles this early in the project trying to get it off
with a ratchet. You can see me removing the yoke from the front output shaft in the
picture above. I was expecting to need a gear puller to get it off, but
was pleasantly surprised to find I could remove it by hand with just a bit of
The instructions say to move the transfer case range lever all the way rearward, to the four wheel low position. In the picture above, I am pushing the lever all the way back. You can verify you have it in the right position but turning the input shaft and noting that both the rear and front output shafts turn at a reduced rate (about 2.73:1....ie., low range).
More of Round #2
4x4 Off-Road Homestead Firearms RC Models