Open the box of brake pads, if you have not done so already.
My calipers came with one set of the metal sliders (that the brake pad backing
plate rubs against) already installed in one of the calipers. If yours is
this way, take the other set of sliders and install them in the remaining
caliper using the assembled one as a reference. Push the pads into
position in the caliper.
It is time to slide the caliper into position and bolt it to the mounting bracket. The two bolts that you loosened before will be used to secure the caliper into position. They both have a round spacer (circled in yellow in the above photo) that must be in position when you slide the caliper over the rotor. Be sure the threads in the mounting holes on the caliper are clean and likewise, the threads on the bolts.
Apply red Loctite to the threads on the bolts and the caliper mounting hole.
Slide the caliper over the rotor and align the mounting holes with the bolts. Tighten the bolts and torque them to 70 foot pounds. The bleeder valve should be located at the top of caliper (circled in yellow in the above photo). The threaded port for the brake line is circled in red in the above photo.
I forgot to snap a photo of the driver's side brake hose connection so I'll include the photo I took of the passenger side. I left my old calipers attached to the brake hoses right up until I was ready to move the brake hose over to the new caliper. Vanco provides new copper washers (two per fitting) with the kit which is nice as they are sometimes difficult to find at the local auto parts store. Remove the banjo bolt from the brake hose fitting, install the new copper washers, and then screw it into the new rotor after removing the plastic plug.
You can use your favorite brake bleeding technique or try the method I use. After you are done bleeding both sides, install your tires. It's time to go break-in the pads and rotors.
Vanco provides all the details, nearly a page worth, of how to break in the pads and begin the bedding process on the rotors. Since I don't wish to type all those steps here, I'll rely on you to read the instructions and follow them closely. These need to be performed as written in order to get the most from your new brakes.
One thing I noticed after installing the tires and heading out to break in the pads.....my steering wheel was no longer centered. For my steering setup, which has the drag link attached directly to the passenger steering knuckle, a knuckle swap could certainly change the effective length of the drag link (a small amount) and thus cause the steering wheel to rotate a small amount as well. This is not a problem and will be resolved when I loosen the jam nuts on the drag link and rotate it a turn or two to change its length and center the steering wheel.
I've only put a few miles on the TJ since Sunday's wrenching session but I like what I see so far. Having already had a hydroboost setup, my pedal was firm and high (typical for a hydroboost). Overall, I find it more linear, if you would.....the ability to better modulate my brakes has improved. As for stopping, no problem there. I look forward to some trail time with this new setup. I'll try to do an update in a couple of months with my impressions as to how it is all working at that point in time.
That is about it.....it was a straight forward upgrade that went just as the instructions said it should. I like those kind! I know you will too.
Good trails to you and remember to TREADLightly!
4x4 Off-Road Homestead Firearms RC Models