Click image for more information
by Dave Gallegos (TJBoomer on JU)
Now that the air box bottom half is in position and the air box is installed, it's time to work on the air box lid. Franks write-up for air box relocation contains the required information for completing the project and fabricating the tube to required specs for proper fit. Just like earlier, I've made a few minor changes to the instructions and I used a different method to plug the air box lid outlet.
Required items for this portion of the project are a 2-3/4" OD ABS flange or equivalent (of all the parts for this project this was the most difficult to locate - it took weeks to find), 4 - 10-24 bolts with nuts and washers, Black Sensor Safe RTV silicone, and a rattle can spray paint lid from a can of Premium Rust-Oleum spray paint (this seemed to fit the air box lid outlet the best).
1. Insert the spray paint can lid into the air box outlet and, with the RTV silicone, seal the lip of the paint can lid on the inside of the outlet and allow to dry. See Figure 1.
2. There are three ribs that need to be removed on the large end of the air box lid. A Dremel with a cutoff wheel will make quick work of this. See Figure 2.
3. Trial fit the 2-3/4" OD flange to the air box lid where the
ribs were removed and make adjustments for proper fit.
4. Drill four holes on the corners of the flange with the proper size bit for the 1/2" x 10-24 bolts and four matching holes into the air box lid.
5. Temporarily install the flange and 4 each 1/2" x 10-24 bolts with washers and nuts. See Figure 3.
Figure 36. With a medium point marker, mark the lid where a whole needs to be cut for the flange.
12. Install this newly modified air box with air filter into position. See Figure 5.
More York OBA